How to Plant a Fruit Tree in Georgia

PLANTING FRUIT TREES 101

You’ve picked your fruit trees and berries - now what?!

This article will help you identify when, where, and how to plant your trees and plants for success. While these are general tips, all fruit trees are a little bit different. Make sure to also refer to the specific tree descriptions and guides linked at the bottom of this article for each different variety of tree that we offered during the snackyard sale.  For Citrus, refer to this Growing Citrus in Atlanta article.

  1. When to Plant. Most fruit trees will do well planted in fall or spring (when mostly dormant). For, citrus I would wait until spring to plant it unless you are very prepared to protect it over the winter. Keep an eye on the 10 day weather forecast making sure there are no projected temperatures below 32 for the citrus or anything that is already flowering before planting. It may be beneficial to wait to plant your citrus until mid April just in case. In general, spring and fall are the best times to plant a fruit tree. 

  2. Picking a Spot. Sun is one of the foundations of success for your trees and plants.  Make sure to look at the sun requirements for your specific tree or vine (linked below), and then study the sun in your space to identify the best spot for your tree or plant. You can use apps like Lumos or something similar to map the sun patterns throughout the year. Most fruit trees will do best in full sun but some, like pawpaws and raspberries, will prefer some shade in the afternoon especially in the heat of the summer. Most will also tolerate half-day of sun. Ultimately, though, they will produce the most if they get at least 6-8 hrs of full sun at maturity. Remember that it is rare to have the “perfect” location, so just find the best possible one on your site.

    Read the Citrus in Georgia article to learn how to identify a warmer microclimate within your site for more sensitive citrus or other trees that are right on the line of your zone. Not sure which zone you are in? Use this interactive map from USDA. 

  3. You should also consider spacing and watering needs of your tree or plant before planting. Here are some questions should ask your self when considering a site:

    • What is the height height and width of your tree in 10 years (refer to the size of your specific variety).

    • Will it be affected by other trees? Cables? Sidewalks?

    • Does this site I’m looking at accumulate sitting water during heavy rains or does it drain relatively quickly? Fruit trees, and especially citrus, will always prefer well drained soil. This can be difficult with our Georgia clay which is why it is important to dig large enough holes to allow the looser backfilled soil mixed with some compost.

  4. Hole Digging & Soil. Once you’ve identified a site, you should dig a hole at least 2-3x the height and width of the rootball (or the nursery pot). When you begin to backfill the planting hole, center the tree inside the hole, holding it upright and allowing the soil to fall beneath as well as around the side of the roots.

    According to Stark Brothers, “You know the soil you dug up first, right underneath the grass? When refilling your planting hole, it's always best to place that soil in first. It's usually more fertile, as well as more porous, and when placed down near the roots, it will help the tree grow better.”  You can mix some compost into the remaining soil that you are backfilling with, but make sure it is made up of at least ½ to ¾ native soil. Soil removed from the hole will work. 

    As mentioned, make sure to center the tree in the hole allowing for sufficient space for the root systems to grow out and down. Ultimately, the depth of the tree should allow for 2 inches of soil from the nursery pot to be sticking out above the original soil line. 

    Once you’ve finished backfilling, place cardboard or newspaper around the base of the tree or plant and then cover it with mulch. This will both protect the soil and suppress weeds that would otherwise compete for water or nutrients. 

  5. Fertilization. *Do NOT fertilize in fall or winter. During the spring, add organic fruit tree fertilizer which you should be able to find at most local garden centers. This can be applied along the base of the fruit tree after it has been planted and the hole backfilled with soil. Do not put fertilizer in the hole as this could damage the roots. Make sure to follow the instructions on the back of the package for amount and frequency. 

    In general, err on the side of less fertilizer until you have taken a soil test and understand whether there are nutrient deficiencies or pH imbalances. Overfertilizing can cause other issues and even fruit production issues. Again, refer to the specific soil needs for your specific fruit tree or plant. 

    Stop fertilizing around July 1 to allow for sufficient time to harden off before the first frost. 

    Want to test your soil? You can order test kits from your county’s UGA Extension Office. Don’t wait to plant your trees even if you’re waiting on your results, your soil composition will take several months to adjust regardless. They say the ideal time to test it is the fall.  

  6. Watering. When you first plant your tree, give it two deep waterings (think a bucket full!) the first week or two, less if there is rainfall. Following that, reduce it to one deep watering a week opposed to more frequent, lighter waterings. This will encourage deeper root growth.

    Continue to monitor the weather. If we received a heavy rain that week, it may not need it. In periods of drought-like conditions or extreme heat as we tend to see in Georgia summers, they may need extra watering. We recommend watering in the early morning or the evening, otherwise the water will evaporate before the plant can fully benefit. It is possible to overwater and cause root rot especially if there is poor drainage, so a happy medium will do!

  7. Growing Fruit Trees in Containers. Container gardening is a little different, so you want to make sure to learn about those nuances. Proper drainage is critical, and it is easier to over water and over fertilize in pots. Stark Brothers has a great series on this: https://www.starkbros.com/growing-guide/article/fruit-trees-in-containers-pt1

    Our citrus grower recommends not putting your tree in the biggest pot you can find at first but instead gradually increasing it over the years. If your tree is currently in a 5g nursery pot, she recommends planting it in no larger than a 15g pot to start with.

Remember, your fruit tree or berry won’t necessarily thrive the first year it is planted into the grown as it gets acclimated to its new home. As the saying goes for fruit trees: the first year they survivoe, the second year they thrive, and the third year they PROVIDE!

Make sure to check out our specific resources and descriptions for each variety and plant we offered at the snackayrd sale below, and don’t hesitate to comment with questions or even tips for others.

Happy Snackyarding - Garden On, Y’all!

BERRIES

Blueberry

Raspberry

Blackberry

Mulberry

Muscadine

FRUIT TREES

Fig 

Kumquat

Loquat

Lemon

Growing Lemon in Georgia (may not be cold hardy enough for Atlanta region): https://www.gardenguides.com/129059-lemon-trees-georgia.html


Olive Tree

Pawpaw

Persimmon 

Pineapple Guava

Pomegranate

Tangerines + Satsumas

OTHER 

Companion Plants & Goodies

Shiitake Mushroom Log

Comfrey


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Grow Citrus at Home in Atlanta & Georgia